I'm not one of those people who'll rave to the masses about everywhere they've been: while I strive to get the most out of each new place I visit, I'm always honest about it. If I love it, great; if I don't like it, it's not the end of the world - there are generally a few pleasures to be squeezed out of even the most dire destinations and if not, well, odds are I'll be moving on in the next few days anyway.
Having been to my fair shares of cities this year, I can safely say that Hong Kong is not among my favourites. There are several reasons for this: it's absolutely manic, packed with (frustratingly slow moving) people, incredibly short on space, very claustrophobic and not particularly easy on the eye - thank the vast quantities of building sites for that. It probably doesn't help that I was ill and didn't get a lot of sleep in the first few days, either.
However, that's not to say it doesn't have its merits, and I've done my best to unearth them in the 6 days I've been here. Here are 7 things actually worth doing in Hong Kong*:
1. Man Mo Temple
Hit your cultural sweet spot with a visit to this small but beautiful temple in Central. With Buddha statuettes, spiritual offerings and spirals of coiled incense (pictured) filling the room with curls of ethereal mist, Man Mo is a peaceful haven away from the congested roads and roar of traffic. Tie this in with a trip to The Peak (number 6) and you've got yourself a good looking morning.
2. Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery
I went to another temple in Central after reading recommendations, but to my disappointment it was pretty much the same as Man Mo; coiled incense and statuettes. 'Seen one temple, seen 'em all,' you might think (and I'm certainly guilty of sinking into this mindset too), however there is one religious site that's worth a good hour of your time - and that includes climbing the 400 very steep steps to the top.
Located on a hilltop overlooking Hong Kong's soaring skyscrapers, the journey to the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery in Sha Tin is no mean feat. Luckily, there are plenty of excuses to stop for a breather as the path is lined with life-sized Buddhas all striking different poses, displaying distinct facial expressions and engaged in a variety of activities. Just in case you hadn't got the gist, all four walls of the hilltop temple are lined with hundreds of Buddhas, and there's also a beautiful pagoda along with a plethora of colourful shrines awaiting those who complete the climb.
3. Pink dolphin watching
As a self-proclaimed wildlife nut, I'm rather biased pronouncing this as my favourite 'sight' in Hong Kong. I enjoyed it so much that I felt it deserved its own post. The excursion took place on Lantau Island and gives you the option of being dropped off at the main town rather than going back to Kowloon. I didn't stay, but the island is home to a giant seated Buddha statue, cable cars and...Disneyland! Might have been worth paying Buddha a quick visit but I figured I'll be seeing plenty of him in south east Asia. Until then, big man.
4. Urban parks
Aside from a beach, perhaps, there's nothing better than a quiet, beautiful green park to temporarily relieve the stresses associated with city dwelling. Hong Kong excels in the provision of serene urban parks that are a true oasis in a hot, sweaty city. Kowloon Park - the closest to my hostel and my personal favourite - not only has an aviary, sculpture garden and a fitness trail but also boasts a huge outdoor swimming complex for $17 (less than £1.50) a pop. Hong Kong Park (pictured below) is located in Central and has crystal clear lakes, bubbling fountains and cute little turtles more than happy to pose for photographs.
Another green oasis well worth factoring into your itinerary is the Nan Lian Garden. Much of it was closed off for - you guessed it, building works - when I went, but my disappointment didn't last long after wandering into the adjacent Chi Lin Nunnery and its stunning lotus gardens; gorgeous doesn't do them justice. This is a lovely place to lose yourself for a few moments and take a breather from the hustle and bustle of the city.
5. Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade
I'm a sucker for waterfronts and have spent a couple of my evenings down by the sea, strolling along the promenade and soaking up the stunning nighttime views. The twinkling Central skyline is enhanced by the 8pm laser light show, which sets the buildings aglow in a neon feast for the eyes. It's also a lovely place to go for a run or a leisurely walk in the mornings - you'll see Hong Kongers practicing tai chi in the local parks and if you're around early enough you can catch the sun rising out of distant hills in the horizon.
6. The Peak
For unrivalled views of the city, take the tram up to The Peak on Central. With skyscrapers, the harbour and the lush green surroundings of a country park, the scenery offers a great mix of urban and rural**. The Circle Walk is a good way to make the most of the views, escape the crowds for a while and lose yourself in a rare peaceful moment in one of the world's most populated cities. You'll loop back round to the main square, which is packed with cafés and restaurants - ideal for picking up lunch or a quick snack to refuel.
Nature nerd alert! This is one of the coolest trees I have ever seen (with the exception of sequoias, of course). This is an Indian Rubber Tree which develops aerial roots that hang down from the branches, absorbing water and nutrients from the air until they reach the ground and grow into the soil, where they thicken and eventually become props for the entire tree.
** The juxtapositions of urban & rural and contemporary & traditional seem to be a running theme throughout the city, captured in the snaps below.
7. Repulse Bay Beach
Despite its unfortunate name, Repulse Bay Beach is actually a lovely place to hang out, relax and catch some rays. With rolling hills, sparkling white buildings home to the rich and famous & wonderfully warm waters, you can easily spend hours working on your tan, people watching and breathing in some fresh air away from the smog of the city centre.
I have to admit I'm very glad to be leaving Hong Kong in a few hours and move on to a country I've wanted to visit for quite some time. To Thailand!
*Note that shopping is not on this list, nor will it ever appear as a 'must-do' activity in any destination guide written by yours truly. The malls are nice and Temple Street night market is okay - same as any other market, hundreds of stalls selling the same tat no-one really wants to buy (although I did pick up a cheap bracelet to add to my growing collection). Like most other big cities, Hong Kong is also home to a healthy number of museums - space, art, history etc - but being a more outdoorsy kind of traveller I didn't venture into any of them. The only thing I didn't get round to doing (blame distance and the irresistible call of the beach) that would have been fun was hiking through one of the HUGE number of country parks in the surrounding areas. With its deserted beaches, Sai Kung East sounded right up my street, and Shek O is popular with tourists and locals alike, although from what I've read the main trail is pretty tough going.
