Machu Picchu - wonder of the world

Written Wednesday 16 April

Well, well, well. I've never considered myself a mountain kind of girl - the fear of heights doesn't help - but I think it's physically impossible not to be astonished by the majestic landscape proudly displayed by the incredible Machu Picchu. All of my concerns about feeling like I'd already 'seen' it (myraid Facebook photos and sitting through around 500 snaps this time last year when mum trekked the Inca Trail) vanished the instant the cloud lifted to disclose the ruins in their full glory. Sat there just looking in awe for a good 40 minutes, completely missing the beginning of the tour I'd booked onto - but was so worth it. 

The ruins looked spectacular in the sun, as did the surrounding mountainscape...

...but glad I got there at 6am before the heat and the crowds. Ascending towards the sun gate with vast white clouds swallowing sections of the mountains as if to keep them a secret from the prying eyes of tourists, the serenity was on an equal footing with the tranquillity.

On the mumma's recommendation, also walked to the Inca Bridge, which was an interesting experience! With terror-inducing vertical cliffs to my right and a thin piece of rope attached to the wall on my left, I feared for my life on numerous occasions during the 5 minute stretch - but felt strangely exhilerated at the same time. The bridge is closed off to the public and for good reason - it consists of 4 or 5 logs laid across an ominously long drop and then an incredibly steep set of stairs scaling the mountain on the other side. Cool - but glad I'm not an Inca!

All in all, Machu Picchu - success!

Machu Picchu pueblo

Written Tuesday 15 April

I thought I'd have to fight off sleep on the train journey from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu town (7km away from the ruins) but the dramatic landscape startled me right out of my weary state and kept my eyes wide open for the full hour and a half. We rolled through towering mountains carpeted from top to bottom with lush green vegetation, peaks alternating between snowcapped and cloud covered and gushing rivers (and some brave souls in the distance doing the full trek - very glad I decided against it in the end, don't think even travelling the world will shock the lazy gene out of my system).

Made up of narrow cobbled streets framed by vast mountains looming overhead, this pint sized pueblo could easily be dwarfed out of existence. However, being the gateway to a wonder of the world it's swarming with tourists (which I actually find quite comforting) and buzzing with life - and people asking me if I want a freaking massage!

Perfect photography fodder which I took full advantage of, then got myself a Swedish/hot stone massage on the cheap - it was either succumbing to the inevitability or continuing to decline politely every 10 paces before eventually yelling that NO, I don't want a maldito masaje in some poor sod's face. 

Sitting in the hostel lobby at the mo listening to the rain...reminds me of the crazy storm in Cusco yesterday afternoon where it pelted it down so hard I thought the restaurant roof was going to cave in! Water leaking from the ceiling and through the light bulbs...standard. Took it in turns to stand in the doorway and watch in wonder as nature threw all it had to give at this now very soggy city.

P.S. Anyone thinking of travelling to South America, brush up on your Spanish! I've used it every single day - and not often out of choice. A lot of people don't even have a basic command of English, including hotel staff, so it's worth getting to grips with the basics. Quite embarrassed at how bad my Spanish is actually, I was sat next to a 50-something year old man on the train who struck up a conversation with me about an hour in and I couldn't for the life of me remember the 'vosotros' form of ANY verb, wah! Had to decide whether to go with what I know or refuse to ask him any questions whatsoever, so ended up calling him 'tu' for the rest of the journey. Don't think he minded but so not cool...

P.P.S. Always wear shoes in the hostel bathrooms. Judging by the state of mine tonight I think their approach to cleaning here involves standing in the doorway with a hose and giving anything in firing range a good soaking. Wet socks in a humid environment is not the one - nor is feeling like you've discovered the Amazon basin in your bathroom. Half expecting to find a crocodile frolicking in the shower tomorrow morning... 4am start for Machu Picchu tomorrow, dear god. Hope it's worth it!

Cusco - day 2

Monday 14 April

People sometimes say that it doesn't matter where you go as long as you've got good company. Today I decided to go on a 'free' walking tour ("Nothing comes for free guys") where I met Eddie, a Canadian travelling through the country who I ended up hanging out with until the early hours :) Didn't do much, just wandered, sampled local dishes and introduced ourselves to the famous Pisco Sour cocktail which was yummers. (This is a non-negotiable rite of passage for anyone visiting Peru so as far as I'm concerned I'm still good on the not drinking front!). 

Feel ten times better than yesterday, think all I needed was some company. Eddie's trip sounds amazing - 3 whole months just in Peru including a decent stint in the jungle, although having seen the pics think Cusco was the right decision after all - jungle seems to be mostly insects (spiders!) and giant guinea pigs (like dog size, maybe even bigger). Still quite keen to go on the off chance of seeing a jaguar and to photograph parrots and macaws in their natural environment. We'll see what happens - going to see how much jungle action I get on this Bolivia to Brazil tour and then decide whether to hop down to Belize or Mexico instead of flying home!

Anyway, Cusco will do for now...it's quite pretty really, especially if you get some height.

My first and last full day in Cusco, but tbh the city's so small I feel like I've seen all the main attractions (square, cathedral...Starbucks?) at least a dozen times. Even my taxi driver from the airport said 4 days is plenty to do Cusco and Machu Picchu. Not long to go til I'm there now!

Crappy Cusco - day 1

Written Sunday 13 April

It's been a shitty day to be brutally honest. Said my goodbyes last night to the absolutely lovely people I met on the Galapagos tour and the equally lovely hotel staff - shout out to the gorj receptionist Gabriel who let me use the front desk PC for blogging as soon as his manager left for the night :)

Woke up at 4 for a 5am taxi to the airport but got stuck in accident traffic for an HOUR on the bridge - luckily I'm really anal about plane/train times so made it okay... 5 hours of travelling later and bienvenido a Cusco. I was already doubting my choice (think would have preferred an Amazon jungle trip instead) and today didn't shine a great light on Cusco to be honest. Where to start...

-The room I've booked for tomorrow night might not actually be available, marvellous!

-In the 5 minutes it took to watch a flag ceremony in the main square about 10 people shoved their crappy jewellery and other tat in my face asking for money. Feck off already!

-A creepy old man started following and talking to me even though I made it clear I 'don't speak Spanish' (or English!). Very persistent so had to abort exploring mission and turn back the way I came which was annoying...obviously I don't mind chatting to normos (generally waiters, hotel staff, shop owners & taxi drivers) but it always seems to be the creepy ones

-An issue from home cropped up again today which cast a dark cloud over the rest of the afternoon. Before it felt like I'd been away for months but this snapped me straight back to reality, now it really feels like the short 11 days it's been. Blah

-2 of the people (foreign) in my 4 bed dorm barely said hello as they walked in and then proceeded to talk only to each other...nice. Now it appears they're sharing the bed right above mine, which can only mean one thing - will be sleeping with my headphones in tonight...!

-It's FREEZING! Am wearing leggings, PJs, a fleece and have a duvet and a blanket (plus a spare jumper on standby). Crazy to think it was so hot in the Galapagos just 2 days ago that I didn't even want to wear my bikini!

Redeeming factors of the day include free wifi in the rooms and an amazing hot chocolate from the Starbucks I found among the row of shops/cafés/hostels framing the main square. Gotta love home comforts on days like these :)

Feeling pretty low and wishing I was with someone from home. It's only 9pm but just want this day to be over. Tomorrow is another day I guess and things can only get better from here, I hope...

I'm on top of the world!

Well, in the middle of it at least! Went to the 'geographically calculated' middle of the world (la mitad del mundo)...

...and did a few experiments at the museum to prove it - water going straight down the plug hole rather than swirling (anti)clockwise and failing spectacularly at walking in a straight line along the equator - almost fell flat on my face after approximately 3 steps! However, I am pleased to say that today I officially became an 'egg master' which involves successfully balancing an egg on top of the head of a nail on the equator line. Little things!

We stopped off somewhere on the way where vast clouds formed by water vapour released by the Cotopaxi Volcano swathed the mountains in a blanket of white, making for incredible viewing.

The whole afternoon - a 2 hour round trip in the taxi and the museum - cost $24!! Everything is so much cheaper here, haircuts for $3, pizza for $5 and long bus journeys for $0.50. Great last day in Quito, and indeed Ecuador. Having heard rave reviews, I quite want to visit Baños but I haven't left myself enough time for impromptu visits unfortunately... On the plus side, off to Cuzco tomorrow for 4 days. Had a mild panic this morning that I might have to miss my flight; the laundrette said to collect my clothes at half 9 but when I went it was closed...still closed at half 10 and at half 11! Eeeek, luckily it opened at like midday but it was a very stressful morning, the thought of continuing my travels with a pair of jeans, a top and one pair of pants does not bear thinking about!